|
The Columbus
Dispatch Menu Review, 2007
The stars of Polaris Grill's new
Floribbean menu might well be the two
appetizers.
Calamari ($8.95) are crisply fried with a
very thin coating of breading and served
with a lemon-and-garlic mayonnaise and
a mild red-pepper sauce. They taste fresh,
with an excellent, tender consistency (no
rubbery bite here).
The shrimp seviche "cooks" the small
shrimp in a pungent marinade of lime
juice, cilantro, onion and jalapeno pepper.
It's served chilled on top of some crispy
tortillas, accompanied by seaweed salad
dressed with roasted sesame oil - a Pan-
Asian touch that marvelously
complements the seviche ($8.95).
But the blackened-grouper entree
($21.95) isn't shabby, either. It isn't
really blackened - which is good; you can
taste the fish and the plentiful hot spicing
dusted on it before it is sauteed. Its sauce
of butter, passion fruit and mango
contributes, as do the large slices of fried
plantain and the fluffy rice prepared with
sweet and hot peppers.
The Key West salmon ($19.95) is grilled
and given an unusually harmonious
topping of guacamole mixed with
crabmeat. Hardly a me-too salmon, it's
accompanied by the same flavorful rice
and asparagus.
|